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		<title>7.62x54r Ammunition &#124; The Right Load For My M-39</title>
		<link>http://taxidermycafe.com/7-62x54r-ammunition-how-i-found-the-right-load-for-my-m-39/</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 22 Oct 2010 17:49:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>james</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ammunition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hand Loading]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[7.62x54r]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[7.62x54r ammunition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Finnish M-28]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Finnish M-39]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mosin nagant accuracy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mossin nagant ammo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[PKM ammunition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Russian sniper ammunition]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://taxidermycafe.com/?p=114</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Let me say at the very beginning that this is not a recommendation of any type. It is simply a method I used to develop a handload that worked very well in one particular rifle. The results may not be &#8230; <a href="http://taxidermycafe.com/7-62x54r-ammunition-how-i-found-the-right-load-for-my-m-39/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
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<p>Let me say at the very beginning that this is not a recommendation of any type. It is simply a method I used to develop a handload that worked very well in one particular rifle. The results may not be the same for you. Handloading can be a hazardous activity if not approached correctly. <strong>Please do not try this yourself!</strong></p>
<p>The 1891 Russian 7.62x54 rimmed cartridge is still in service in some parts of the world, serving as ammunition for such varied pursuits as sniper rifle usage, and squad level machine-gun ammunition. Not bad for a round that turned 100 years old in 1991. 7.62x54r ammunition is available in a lot of types, and from a lot of places, and if you choose to fire it, <strong>please make sure that your firearm has been checked by a competent gunsmith</strong> before doing so.</p>
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<p>I purchased a Finish M-39 to add to my military rifle collection. It was not one of the older lot, but seems to be one that was re-purposed in the 1970's. For those of you who may not be familiar with this weapon, it is built on a Russian M-91, or M-91/30 Mosin Nagant receiver, which is not the best action for a sporting rifle. Mosin Nagant accuracy suffered from a long and heavy trigger pull, and several other factors.  The rifle fires the Russian M-1891 rimmed cartridge, which fires at velocities and distances just slightly below the venerable 30-06. The Fins used them because they were available as captured or conscripted Russian weapons. On this model, unlike the earlier M-28, the Fins removed the original Russian stocks, and replaced them with nice finger jointed stocks, like the M-28, they removed the barrels, and added heavier, better made barrels, and made other modifications to improve trigger pull, sighting, and other factors. The end result is a weapon that, although a little bulky and clumsy, functions well, and is capable of extreme accuracy with the right ammunition in the hands of someone who knows how to use it.</p>
<p>The problem was, that this one was a little finicky. No 7.62x54r ammunition that I tried would produce the results I wanted.</p>
<p>I had already gone through the sequence I use for checking a rifle, like making sure that the stock bolts are tightened correctly, the barrel to stock clearance was right, that there was nothing putting pressure in the wrong places, no barrel warp or bulges, and still, with the 4 different types of military Mosin Nagant ammunition, and the 3 different types of commercial ammunition, the groups were just too big at around 6 to 8 inches at 100 yards.</p>
<p>I set about developing a hand load to make it work. I used both Sellier and Bellot, and Norma cases, several different primmer brands, a variety of bullets in differing weights, and countless powder combination, I tried every conceivable cartridge, bullet, powder, and primmer combination, and still, nothing better. I did this by fits and starts over a 2 year period, and still no significant improvement. I kept careful notes.</p>
<p>I came by a case of 2 spam cans of 440 rounds each of ammunition which has been popularly called "Russian sniper ammunition", but which I suspect was really intended as PKM ammunition for the older Russian squad level automatic by Kalisnikov, but I have no valid evidence for either theory. Either way, I had a lot of well stored ammo dated 1986, with potassium perchlorate primers. If you are new to this field, pp primers are corrosive. They deposit potassium chloride into a hot barrel, and suck moisture in to rust your tube. Meticulous cleaning is needed after using them, preferably with ammonia, the minute the shooting stops. The weapon with which I had intended to use the ammo was a Tokorev rifle, and if you have ever field stripped one of these, you will know that cleanup, especially the meticulous type needed for corrosive primers, is intense! I hate corrosive primers, so I decided to try a little experiment.</p>
<p>I took some of the Soviet made ammunition, disassembled it, used Sellier and Bellot cases, and CCI primers, and used the same powder that the military cases had held, reduced by 5% from the original load. I started with  the 5% reduction, and loaded 5 cartridges, made 5 more with one grain added, made five more with another grain added, and so on until I reached the original charge.</p>
<p>Just for kicks, I made 2 extra five round bunches, dropping each at one grain below the five% reduction, and went to the range.</p>
<p>I fired each in sequence at a 25 yard target, checking after the first round of each for primer flattening. The lowest charges exhibited almost no flattening, and the highest was never fired due to the flattening that occurred on the next to last batch, which, although not severe, or dangerous, indicated a little more pressure than I wanted to use in a rifle receiver manufactured in 1915.</p>
<p>The process produced some amazing results! Every batch was better than any of the factory ammo, and most were very good. One selection shot 5 rounds into a ragged hole about the size of a dime! This was a great starting point.</p>
<p>Using my <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=Lee%20Reloading%20Kits&amp;tag=handloadtc-20&amp;index=sporting&amp;linkCode=ur2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325">Lee Classic Loader</a>, I loaded 10 more rounds of the best performer for further testing. I continued with 5 rounds at the hundred yard target after making a slight adjustment to the windage, and repeated the initial 25 yard results with 5 rounds slightly under an inch! I advanced to the 200 yards with similar results. The only other guy at the range was also shooting at the 200 yard target, so after firing we retrieved our targets together. He tried to buy the rifle from me.</p>
<p>I tried a few more rounds the next weekend, this time I made half the rounds with a lee factory crimp. the results made a slight improvement. This was followed by several other trips to the range at longer distances, each one exhibiting sub MOA groups for the distance.</p>
<p><a href="http://taxidermycafe.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/IMGP1573.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-123" title="Finnish M-39" src="http://taxidermycafe.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/IMGP1573-300x225.jpg" alt="7.62x54r Finish M-39" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
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		<title>Reloading Manuals Handload Kits</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 01 Oct 2010 19:42:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>james</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ammunition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hand Loading]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Reloading, also known as handloading, is a great way to literally &#8220;get more bang for your buck&#8221;. Reloading can save you tons of cash over the cost of store bought cartridges, and has the added advantage of offering much better &#8230; <a href="http://taxidermycafe.com/reloading-manuals-handload-kits/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
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<p>Reloading, also known as handloading, is a great way to literally &#8220;get more bang for your buck&#8221;. Reloading can save you tons of cash over the cost of store bought cartridges, and has the added advantage of offering much better accuracy since you can tailor a load to fit your particular rifle with just a little very pleasant work and experimentation.</p>
<p>Handloading is a fun and interesting hobby on it&#8217;s own, and with the rewards it offers in improved accuracy, and decreased cost, it is a &#8220;no brainer&#8221;.</p>
<p>To get started, there are a few tools you will need, and you will probably be surprised at how little they cost. In fact, you can probably get started using <a href="http://handloadkits.com">handload kits</a> with everything you need for loading one caliber for around a hundred bucks. That is the equivalent of the cost for 2 to 4 boxes of ammunition from the market. See: <a rel="prev" href="http://handloadkits.com/hand-load-introduction-why-hand-load/">Hand Load Introduction: Why Hand Load?</a> for more information and details.</p>
<p>One thing that you will eventually want to have for your reloading adventures is a reloading manual. <a title="Reloading Manuals" href="http://reloadingmanuals.net/reloading-manuals/">Reloading Manuals</a> offer information for cartridge loading, powder and bullet charts, and the proper use of reloading equipment to assure safety and accuracy. No matter how simple your handloading operation, you should have at least one manual, and several reloading manuals would be even better. With more than one manual, you can compare load data, and methods to pick out what works best for you.</p>
<p>Take a look at some of the reloading manuals available:</p>
<p><center><iframe src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=reloadingmanuals-20&#038;o=1&#038;p=8&#038;l=as1&#038;asins=B000N8OKAU&#038;fc1=000000&#038;IS2=1&#038;lt1=_blank&#038;m=amazon&#038;lc1=0000FF&#038;bc1=000000&#038;bg1=FFFFFF&#038;f=ifr" style="width:120px;height:240px;" scrolling="no" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></p>
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		<title>A Deer Hunting Preparation Note</title>
		<link>http://taxidermycafe.com/a-deer-hunting-preparation-note/</link>
		<comments>http://taxidermycafe.com/a-deer-hunting-preparation-note/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Aug 2008 05:07:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>james</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ammunition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Guns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hunting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rifles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://taxidermycafe.com/?p=79</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Just a little note, about two of my favorite topics. Sighting, and ammunition. If you are planning on changing ammunition this year, or if you are planning on using a different rifle, you should start making those choices now, and &#8230; <a href="http://taxidermycafe.com/a-deer-hunting-preparation-note/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just a little note, about two of my favorite topics. Sighting, and ammunition.</p>
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<p>If you are planning on changing ammunition this year, or if you are planning on using a different rifle, you should start making those choices now, and head on out to the range for some sighting in. Every ammunition shoots to a different point, and will have a different minute of angle value. If you start finding out what that is, and getting ready now, you won&#8217;t have to rush so much when the season gets near.</p>
<p>If you want a little information on why the ammo reacts differently, or some tips on how to pick the best for your rifle, check out the other posts on this subject on this site.</p>
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